Don Gutierrez, tio mio

12-20-07 La Garnacha and Don Alberto Gutierrez

La Garnacha is in the Tissey nature reserve just above Esteli. It is a small farming cooperative that was begun in the Sandinista era and has transformed as needed to survive. They grow vegetables there that are hard to find in many parts of the country (lettuce!) and they also have a cheese making program. The cheese is delicious, and not at all like Nica cheese. They make swiss, gruyere, and raclette.

There are several cabins in La Garnacha where groups can stay for as little as $10 a night, and there is a small comedor where you can have all your meals. From the view point at sunset, you can see San Cristobal, the volcano near Leon, and Momotombo, the volcano near Managua. The view is sweeping and dramatic. The cabins have running water, but it so cold up there (colder and windier even than in Cusmapa) that the thought of a shower is frightening.

Just below La Garnacha, maybe a half an hour walk back towards Esteli, is the home of Don Humberto (sometimes Alberto) Gutierrez. Don Humberto began carving the rock mountain side above his home over thirty years ago to combat his alcoholism, and has not yet stopped. His life’s work, the sculptures come out of the mountain side as animals, religious imagery, scenes from cultures around the world. He says he wants to bring ideas from around the world to Nicaragua, where most people are never introduced to other cultures. The carvings wrap around the mountain. Some are painted, some have text. They are dynamic images, twisting and moving.

He recites poetry to you as you walk and take in the art. He talks almost nonstop the whole time you are there, explaining and describing. His sister, who he lives with, will offer you a cup of coffee as she beams in pride for her clean kitchen. He has many preliminary drawings tacked up on his workshop walls; they are as interesting as the sculptures. His place is a hidden treasure, perhaps my favorite Nicaraguan adventure thus far. I was amazed, and speechless.